Finz in Dedham lives up to its promise

May 11, 2008

A waterfront institution in Salem, Finz Seafood & Grill headed to the south suburbs a year ago to open a second location on Washington Street in Dedham, overlooking Route 128/Interstate 95. It is the high-profile property's latest in a succession of restaurants, most recently a Piccadilly Pub, but Finz holds promise for a long stay.

The main room is bright with a modern, spacious feel; the arrangement provides room for several separate dining areas, a raw shellfish bar, and a waiting area with plush couches and a large-screen television, as well as a lively, full-service bar. The polished metal fixtures and blond woodwork evoke a ship's interior with a minimum of nautical kitsch. There is a separate entrance for a fish market that is open every day, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

The menu follows the decor's welcome less-is-more theme; the dinner offerings are arrayed on one side of a laminated page, and the extensive wine list, with reasonable prices by the glass, half-bottle, and bottle, on the flip side. A separate sheet holds the special offerings.

The service is friendly and efficient, and uses a team approach. We were still happily savoring a basket of fresh, crusty rolls, accompanied by little tubs of butter and hummus, when the food started arriving.

The Finz clam chowder ($5) is a bowl of white broth, rich without being thick, that brims with clams and small chunks of potato. Bacon adds a salty tang to this very satisfying version of the New England classic.

The five salad offerings cover a lot of territory; for traditionalists there's even a wedge of iceberg, dressed up with apple-smoked bacon and bleu cheese, for $7. The Finz house salad ($5) has an array of baby mixed greens and garden vegetables set off by a balsamic vinaigrette; a distinctive touch is the topping of thin curls of carrot that are cooked to a delightful crispness and full of flavor.

We considered ourselves adventurous in opting for the blackened catfish tostada ($10) appetizer, but it seems to have quite a few fans, judging by the number of nearby parties we later noticed savoring the dish. The tender fish, coated with spices but not overpowered by the preparation, is layered between crispy tortillas, and topped by piquant Manchego cheese, mild salsa and guacamole, and a drizzle of cilantro creme fraiche.

There are a sprinkling of appealing alternatives to seafood among the dozen-plus regular entrees, including the chef's vegetarian ravioli ($16), with a pumpkin filling on this night; roasted brined chicken ($19); and grilled 14-ounce ribeye steak ($27). But we were there for the fish, and Finz lives up to its hipster name, adding modern-sounding touches - lemon garlic aioli in the seafood bouillabaisse ($23), raspberry port sauce with the roasted salmon ($19) - to enliven classic dishes.

The evening's specials included halibut cheeks ($22), which turned out to be as intriguing as it sounds. It arrived on a long and narrow serving dish that was the perfect setting for medallion-like morsels of fish lined up along a ridge of flavorful polenta and topped by a Mediterranean-influenced medley that included capers and briny pickles. The dish was garnished with whole spinach leaves that somehow were cooked to an airy crispness.

The grill menu offers a simpler preparation for salmon, tuna, and swordfish as well as the chef's choice, with the price set by the market. This evening's special was monkfish ($20), which was seared just enough to firm up the sturdy, almost steak-like fish but leaving it moist and tender. It was accompanied by a competent supporting cast of roasted potatoes, fresh green beans, and mixed greens.

By saving part of our meals for another day, we had just enough room to try a single dessert, and we made the most of it with the Finz version of s'mores ($7), in which the traditional campfire treat's marshmallow is blended into a creamy cheesecake topped by a thick layer of firm chocolate and toasted mini marshmallows. The delicious result is light and satisfying without being too sweet.

Someday (maybe next year?), the I-95 bridge-widening work will be over, and the Finz parking lot won't be disguised behind construction gear. In the meantime, navigating past the array of Jersey barriers will land you in a safe harbor for seafood.

TERRY FITZGERALD

TASTE & TELL - Finz Seafood and Grill in Dedham is full of pleasant surprises

By JEN WAGNER
The Patriot Ledger

Finz isn’t really a traditional New England seafood restaurant. It’s more than just seafood, fish, butter, breadcrumbs.

Sure, it touts itself as a seafood restaurant. And yes, you can get a staple of fish and chips ($17.99) or clam linguine ($18.99) or steamed lobster (market price).

But you’ll also find a blackened catfish tostada appetizer ($9.99), lobster mac and cheese ($12.99 lunch entrée), and unique salads with berries and other gems in them.

Surprise No. 1 at Finz: The great drink menu. From the blueberry mojitos to a house sangria made with a peach rum to the beers, ranging from Ipswich Ale to Allagash to Guinness. I really had trouble choosing a drink as so many things sounded appealing and unique.

Surprise No. 2: The portions. I’m not normally impressed with portions. But when my lobster ravioli in a sherry cream sauce came with four or five whole claws in a dish that only costs $22.99, I was impressed. The down side of this dish: The ‘‘asparagus tips’’ weren’t asparagus tips. It was just pieces of asparagus cut up, stalk and all. There were probably only two tips in the dish.

The tostada appetizer is a generous appetizer for four - it’s way too much for two people, and could really be a meal for one. The shredded Manchego cheese and guac are among the ingredients that make this a must-have choice.

Surprise No. 3: Finz continued to surprise me through the dinner. What a treat. My husband ordered the shrimp special - five huge stuffed shrimp served artfully on a rectangular plate with roasted asparagus and mashed potatoes ($23.99). This restaurant passed my chowder test, too - not too thick like they’re trying too hard, but full of flavors and clams, and just creamy enough.

Finz in Dedham (the original is in Salem) is modern meets Cape Cod in atmosphere. Bright striped fabric cushions make you think of outdoor furniture in Chatham and perhaps that you’re just off Route 128. A lounge with a fireplace and leather furniture makes for a chic little waiting area on a crowded night.

The reference on the menu to Rachael Ray’s favorite acronym of E.V.O.O. (Extra Virgin Olive Oil) makes me think they’re trying a tad too hard to be trendy.

And the giant fish tank just made me think of Kevin Kline in ‘‘A Fish Called Wanda.’’

But maybe that’s just because I was looking for levity as the guy cleaning the fish tank during dinner hour splashed my husband. (But I imagine the manager will read this and that won’t be a problem for anyone else. I’m giving them a break on this as they just opened and are probably still training staff.)

And don’t miss the adjoining seafood market on your way out. Not that you’ll have eyes for anything after a meal here.

Perhaps another day for the fish market.

FINZ is open seven days a week serving lunch from 11:30 AM and dinner beginning at 4:00 PM. Our kitchen is open until 10:00 PM Sundays-Thursdays and until 11:00 PM Fridays and Saturdays. The Fish Market is open 7 days a week from 10:00 AM through 7:00 PM.

Our bar is serving fine libations from 11:30AM through 12:00 AM Mondays-Thursdays, 11:30 AM through 12:30 AM Fridays-Saturdays and 12:00 PM to 12:00 AM on Sundays.